Why is My Refrigerator Not Cooling Properly? Causes & Fixes

SAAD MAAZ Appliance Engineering Team

Written by Saad Maaz (Lead Appliance Engineer) • Updated May 26, 2026 • 9 Min Read

1. Failed Compressor Starter Relay Block

The compressor motor located at the bottom rear of your refrigerator relies on a starter relay - a small, solid-state plastic switch block attached to the compressor terminals. The relay routes a brief electrical pulse through the compressor's start windings to get the motor spinning before switching over to run windings.

Due to the continuous heavy duty cycles required during Dubai's high-heat summer months, these relay switches are subject to severe electrical stress. The internal ceramic disk can overheat, crack, and burn out. When this happens, the compressor fails to start. You will notice a recurring metallic "click" sound from the rear of the fridge every few minutes as the compressor attempts to start but trips instantly due to winding thermal safety.

DIY Diagnostic & Repair: Disconnect the power plug entirely. Remove the thin metal cover panel at the bottom rear. Unclip the plastic starter relay block from the compressor side. Shake it next to your ear; if you hear a clear rattling noise like broken glass, the internal ceramic disk is shattered. Swapping it requires clipping on an OEM-matching starter relay. Our Refrigerator Repair Dubai team stocks high-durability replacement relays in our mobile vans for all Samsung, LG, and Hitachi models.

2. Thickly Dusty and Insulated Condenser Coils

The condenser coils, located at the back or underneath behind a kick-plate panel, are responsible for dumping the heat extracted from the fresh food cabin out into your room. As the refrigerant flows through these copper lines, the heat dissipates into the surrounding air.

Because the refrigerator runs continuously, the static electricity generated attracts lint, pet hair, and household dust, forming a thick, wool-like insulation blanket over the coils. This thermal barrier prevents heat dissipation. The compressor is forced to run continuously, raising the internal temperature until the compressor overheats and shuts off completely.

Regular Maintenance Protocol: Pull the refrigerator out from the wall. Disconnect power and use a specialized narrow vacuum tube or coil brush to sweep away all built-up dust from the condenser coils every 6 months. This simple step drops compressor operating temperatures, prevents premature compressor burnouts, and reduces power consumption.

Refrigerator Warm or Clicking?

A failed starter relay or clogged coils can spoil your groceries in hours. Our expert technicians carry OEM spares for same-day repairs.

3. Automatic Defrost Assembly & Bimetal Faults

Modern frost-free refrigerators contain evaporator coils located inside the back wall of the freezer compartment. A fan draws air across these coils to keep both the freezer and refrigerator cabins cold. Over time, moisture from food forms frost on these coils. To prevent ice build-up, an automatic defrost system turns on a heater element (defrost heater) for 20 minutes every 8 hours.

The defrost system consists of a bimetal defrost thermostat, a thermal safety fuse, and a control timer. If any of these components fail, the defrost heater will never turn on. Thick layers of solid ice build up on the evaporator fins. The ice completely blocks the air gaps between the fins, stopping the fan from blowing cold air into the fresh food compartment. You will notice the freezer remains frozen, but the refrigerator cabin is completely warm.

Diagnostic & Resolution: Remove the plastic freezer back panel. If you see the evaporator coils completely covered in a block of ice, the defrost cycle has failed. We use multimeters to check electrical continuity across the defrost heater glass tube and the bimetal thermostat. Swapping these open-circuit sensors immediately restores automatic defrosting and returns the fresh food compartment to safe storage temperatures.

4. Brittle, Torn, or Loose Magnetic Door Gaskets

The magnetic rubber gasket seals along the refrigerator and freezer doors are designed to keep the cold air locked inside while preventing warm, humid room air from entering. Over time, spilled juices, food debris, or simple age can cause the rubber to dry out, lose its magnetic strength, or split.

If a gasket does not seal tightly, warm, humid room air is drawn into the cabinet continuously. This warm air forms heavy ice deposits on the freezer walls and causes the compressor to run 24/7 without cycling off, which can quickly lead to compressor motor burnouts in Dubai's high-humidity summer.

The Paper Test: Close a thin paper note in the refrigerator door. If you can pull the paper out easily with zero resistance, the door gasket is warped and needs replacement. Wipe down gaskets with warm soapy water weekly to prevent sticky spills from tearing the rubber.

Defrost Faults or Torn Door Seals?

Don't let cold air escape and raise your DEWA bill. Our technicians resolve bimetal thermostat, fan, and gasket issues on-site.

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair Price Guide (AED)

To ensure complete trust and peace of mind, we operate under a flat-rate pricing slab with standard warranties on all on-site repairs:

How to Identify Refrigerator Gas Leaks

Unlike air conditioners, refrigerator copper lines are protected inside the main polyurethane insulation cabinet. However, micro-frictional wear or acidic food chemicals can create pinhole leaks in the evaporator lines or the hot gas return lines inside the drain pan.

To verify if your refrigerator is suffering from low gas, check these indicators:

• Continuous Compressor Run: The compressor operates 24/7 without cycling off, but both cabins remain warm.
• Cold Condenser Coils: When the compressor is running, feel the metal grilles or back panel. If they are completely cold instead of warm, no heat is being extracted.
• Uneven Frost Pattern: Unclip the freezer back panel. If only the first loop of the evaporator coil is frozen while the rest of the coil is dry, the refrigerant level is extremely low.

If you notice these signs, turn off the appliance immediately to prevent the compressor from running dry and burning its motor windings. Contact our expert Freezer Repair Dubai team for a professional nitrogen pressure holding diagnostic.

Hyperlocal Impact: Refrigerator Balcony Placement in Deira

In densely populated areas like Deira and Naif, many families face space constraints in their apartments. A common practice is to place secondary refrigerators or chest freezers on the apartment balcony.

During Dubai's extreme summer, balcony temperatures can reach 55°C. Refrigerators are designed to operate in indoor ambient temperatures (under 32°C). When placed in extreme heat, the compressor cannot dissipate heat from the condenser. The internal head pressure rises significantly, causing starting relays to melt and compressors to overheat and fail prematurely.

If you must place an appliance on a balcony, ensure it is completely shaded from direct sunlight, and leave at least 15cm of clearance on all sides to allow proper ventilation.

About The Author: Saad Maaz

Lead Appliance Engineering Consultant

Saad Maaz is the Technical Operations Director at SAAD MAAZ Technical Services LLC. With over a decade of hands-on experience diagnostic testing, mechanical servicing, and compressor troubleshooting for split air conditioners, commercial display cases, and domestic refrigeration systems in Dubai, he serves as an E-E-A-T field authority for home appliance maintenance inside the UAE.